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Giddy-Up   Mercedes Benz Model (107) R107 - W107   Giddy-Up 280/300/350/380/420/450/500/560 SL's & SLC's

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A Buyers' Guide to a Mercedes Benz 107 SL

 

This guide was written to reflect the condition of cars in the UK. Where wet weather and the gritting of roads take their toll

5 Easy Ways To Locate Parts For Your Mercedes Benz

 

SL's built in the 70's did not seem to have the same kind of anti-corrosion protection that later ones had. They have survived much better than most cars, but now with an average age of 25 years all but the most well preserved and maintained will have succumbed to some degree of corrosion. A careful examination of a prospective purchase should be carried out to understand the structural integrity. Apart from the obvious things, like the tires batteries and exhausts, the buyer of an SL should look at the condition of the soft top and the hard top, make sure the vehicle has a full compliment of chrome fittings and has intact lights and all electrical systems work. Cars kept to original specification are generally worth more that those that are modified. Handbooks, toolkits and history add to the value.

 

First things first...

How to Identify What Model the car is?

 

Mercedes 107 Reference Chassis

Model

Years

Chassis #

Engine #

280SL

72-80

107.042

110.982 / 6

280SLC

77-80

107.022

110.982 / 6

350SL

71-73

107.043

116.982 / 4

350SLC

71-73

107.023

116.982 / 4

380SL

81-82

107.045

116.960

380SL

83-85

107.045

116.962

380SLC

81

107.025

116.960

450SL

73-75

107.044

117.982

450SL

76-80

107.044

117.985

450SLC

73-75

107.024

117.982

450SLC

76-80

107.024

117.985

500SL

81-85

107.046

117.960 / 2

560SL

86-89

107.048

117.967

Good question! Read this to understand the mystery of Mercedes Chassis and Engine numbers.

The first thing you need to know is that since 1959 all Mercedes-Benz Chassis and engine

numbers have had 12 digits in the following sequence: 123  456  78  901234

Go and find your chassis and engine number and read on ...

Haven't been able to find them?  Here are some clues:

- If you have the cars original books you should have the Data Card with this info.
- The chassis number should be on a small plate in front of the radiator and stamped into the body some where.
- V8's have the engine number in the block behind the l/h head.
- Early six cylinders have the number in the block below the 5th and 6th spark plug.

Chassis numbers...

The first three numbers on your chassis number are the most important. Ignore any letters! (ie: 123) These three number tell us the body style. In many cases this is all the info we need.

Engine numbers...

Engine numbers since 1959 have followed much the same pattern as the chassis numbers.

The first three numbers identify the type of engine. For example the M180  is a type of engine. But once again you will need more info to tell what it is!

The next three numbers tell you what version it is.

R107 The R stand for Roadster.

 

What to look for... click image to enlarge... >>>

 

SL Buyer's Guide

 
Here is a list of items to look for when purchasing a 72-80 SL Mercedes. The prices quoted may vary from model to model, but use this a guideline as you begin to negotiate the price of the vehicle you can subtract those items needing repair from the asking price.
As an overall general guideline before purchasing any used Mercedes vehicle is to have the car inspected by a good independent Mercedes Repair shop. Additionally have the car inspected by a body shop.

1) Rust, Rust, Rust and more Rust. Look for it in the following places:
Rocker Panels
Trunk
Under the rear bench behind the seats in the well

2) Soft Top Condition
Check for rips, tears or signs of holes beginning to develop.
Plastic Windows, they should not be cloudy or heavily scratched. If they need to be replaced you are most likely looking at put on a new top. They can be replaced but the top has to come off of the frame.
$800 - $1,000

 
3) Dash Pad
Check for Cracking
Also check for an aftermarket Dash Cover, if installed correctly they look nearly as good as the original
$800


4) Rubber, Rubber, and more Rubber
Seals around the softop and hardtop. Check for water leakes if possible, a brushless car wash would be a good test.
Hoses in the engine compartment, look for dry rot. May look perfect on the outside, but deteriorated on the inside.

5) Interior Wood Trim (Console and dash trim) $400


6) Carpet Condition $400 interior
$400 trunk

7) Seat Belts (have a tendency to fray due to getting catch in door jam) $350/pair

 

8) Sun Visors - should have a firm core. $200/pair, Sun Visor Clips @ Buds Benz


9) Door Panel Skins

10) Paint Condition (repaint versus original) Look around gas filler door, this is a good place to detect repaint.

11) Subframe (SL's from 1972-1980)
Have it inspected by a MB dealer. There is a MB Warranty recall on the subframe. If it is cracked they will replace at no charge, if it is not cracked they will weld a support in place. The only cost involved is for the rubber subframe mounts (about $400). Warranty


12) Timing Chain, Upper Guide Rails and Tensioner   Timing Chain Inspestion
Will need a MB mechanic to inspect these. Have to remove the valve covers to inspect and/or replace these. Chain and rails need to be replaced ever 100,000 miles. Keep that in mind when your looking at the mileage on the car.

If the guide rail breaks it will put lots of bits of plastic into your engine and then your looking at really big bucks for a repair ($4,000)
$300 DYI


13) Cam Shaft
Ticking noise coming from the right valve cover. However you may hear a ticking noise when the car first starts up and this is not to be confused with the Cam Shaft. This is merely the lifters filling with oil, but the ticking noise should stop in a few minutes as the car warms up.
$600


14) Hardtop
Check to see that the paint matches the rest of the car.
Check for any damage to the chrome from taking the top off/on. Hardtops-dime a dozen on ebay

15) Alloy Aluminum Wheels
Check the condition of the silver paint. Over time the paint starts to peel. The wheels can be stripped and repainted. Also, check for brake dust that has become impregnated into the aluminum, this is almost impossible to get out. (Note: All MB's brakes give off large amounts of brake dust)
$600 set of 4


16) Heater and Air Conditioning
A real problem in these cars. Servo and amplifier units to heater a/c control units.
$600-$1,000

 
17) Chrome
Bumpers
Around Windshield
Window Sills
Grill Area - make sure Star Ring is in tact.
Hardtop, lots of chrome there.
Chrome plates where the hardtop attaches to the car.
Side Molding Strips (also check for cracked or shrunken rubber)

18) Grille
The black louvers in the grille have a tendency to get broken.

 

The list of post 1985 enhancements

 

1. The springs have a different spring rate, front and rear.
2. The front stabilizer bar has a 26mm diameter instead of 25mm diameter.
3. The shock absorbers are shorter and have a harder rate.
4. An additional polyurethane bottoming spring has been added.
5. Some model 124 front end parts are used on the front end - the following parts are redesigned:
Front axle carrier, lower and upper control arms, Steering knuckle, Steering knuckle arm, front wheel hub with bearing. The front axle carrier has a newly modified contour, can be used on older model 107s.
6. Limited slip differential
7. The rear axle carrier mount has been offset by 124mm to the left.
8. The rear carrier front rubber mounts are not interchangeable, marked with L and R, have different stiffnesses.
9. The rear axle center is now elastically mounted to the rear carrier both at the front and rear mounts.
10. The rear axle shafts are provided with CV joints similar to model 126 coupe.
11. New light alloy wheels similar to model 201, new mounting screws.
12. New propeller shaft center mount, similar to model 124, not interchangeable with older 107s.
13. Four piston brake calipers on front.
14. Light alloy Master cylinder.
15. Double diaphragm brake booster.
16 Redesigned steering gear, designation 765.707 (LS80), NOT interchangeable with old unit, reduced travel for redesigned front end. Code letter R stamped into the housing. (The 560's turning circle is not as short as previous cars, less "sensitive" steering.)
17. Power steering pump relief pressure changed to 82 +-5 bar.
18. Sheet metal floor under fuel tank changed, mounting positions of tank and filler neck changed.
19. Outside Temperature indicator changed from Celsius to Fahrenheit.
20. Exterior lamp failure indicator added.
21. Fuses and electrical feeds changed.
22. BODY SHEET METAL CHANGES:
Radiator mount changed, hood changed, firewall changed, side-member connecting point front right changed, A-pillars changed, doors changed, B-pillars changed, main floor changed, rear floor changed, cross-member under the driver seat changed, sheet metal shrouds changed, various stiffeners and small parts changed.
23. Door handles changed, similar to model 126.
24. Door lock and striker changed.
25. Central locking system changed, electric vacuum pump similar to models 126 and 201.
26. Fuel tank flap actuating element and guide bushing changed.
27. Outside heated rear view mirrors.
28. Rear high mounted stop lamp added.
29. New Grand Prix radio - larger display indicator with tone setting and more sensitivity - three levels, but returns to least sensitive when turned off.
30. Front bumper and spoiler.
31. Front bumper inner fender liners added.
32. Front seats changed to include lateral support similar to model 124.
33. Hood- a depression was added to the hood reinforcement to clear new brake booster, previous hood will not fit on car.

 


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