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The front horizontal door glass weather
seal and vertical retainer assemblies are removed as follows.
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With a wedge or flat screwdriver
carefully remove the rubber seal from the retainer.
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Old or deteriorated seals may tear or
not seal properly . If replacement is necessary, order #107-2199 .
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Next remove the seal retainer held in
place by phillips screws.
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The vertical door glass rubber weather
seal & retainer are removed in the same manner.
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Check the seal for serviceability, if
replacement is necessary order #107-2200.
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Next remove the flat head phillips screw
& cup washer lying behind the vertical seal retainer.
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The vertical flap can now be peeled from
the vertical frame member.
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Repeat the process for the other side.
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The header bow weather seal & retainer
are then removed.
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Inspect rubber seal for serviceability,
if replacement is necessary, order # 107-2196.
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Peel the top away from the header bow,
pliers will aid in the separation.
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Remove the chrome screws & cup washers
from sides of header bow, these screws are also used to secure the
side tensioning cables to the frame.
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By carefully applying a solvent to the
listings, the adhesive can be softened and the listings are then
easily removed from the bows.
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With most of the deck and vertical flaps
now free, loosen the nut that secures the side cable and pull the
cable from the frame. The back bow listing can now be removed from
the frame.
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Raise the rear frame rail to the
vertical position, start the removal of the rubber weather seal from
the retaining rail by twisting the seal inward and away from the
rail while simultaneously pulling the interlocking lip from the
groove with a hook tool.
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Be careful not to damage the seal with
this tool.
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The remainder of this step can be
completed without the use of this tool .
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Inspect the seal for serviceability, if
necessary replace with # 107-2198.
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Remove the flap from the rail, begin
separation of the two by using the hook and continue by pulling the
flap.
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Pliers may be used if necessary.
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Clean all surfaces of old adhesive.
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Inspect top straps for wear or
discoloration, if replacement is necessary, order # 107-3056.
Before installing the new top it is
critical that the bow height be checked and if necessary be reset to
factory specifications.
This is especially important on older cars which may have had
several replacement tops.
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This is done with the frame up and the
top locked into position.
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The dimension of the exposed cable
between the rear rail and the back bow should be 17 1/2 inches.
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Readjust the cable if necessary.
Top Installation
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Set the new top into position on the
car, check that everything is in order and that window and car
protection are in place.
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With the front rail in the vertical
position apply contact cement to the underside of the rail.
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Apply the cement to approximately 2/3 of
the channel at each side of the locking pin.
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Contact cement can now be applied to
both the right rear and left rear retainer flaps.
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The adhesive should be concentrated from
the seam to approximately 1 1/4 inches outward on the flap to insure
an adequate bonding to the retainer rail will be made.
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While allowing the contact time to set
up and become tacky, a dry run on setting the top to the rear rail
should be made.
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Start by centering the top to the rail.
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The seam on the skirt of the top is
positioned directly on the edge of the rail.
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The top is pulled around the rail so
that the notch in the flap meets the end of the rail, the skirt will
flow in a smooth continuation of the rail and meet the body of the
car.
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Fit the skirt along the edge in short
segments forming a relatively flush extension of the rail.
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When satisfied, use a blunt stuffing
tool to push the flap into the channel.
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Using this procedure continue setting
the top along the rear portion of the retaining rail.
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Using a blade or scissors, trim away any
excess flap material from the channel.
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Apply contact to the side sections of
the rear retainer flap, both left & right side.
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Once the cement has become very tacky,
set the rear side portions of the top on the rail, remember the
notch in the flap goes flush with the end of the rail.
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Again, once you are satisfied that the
skirt is a flush continuation of the rail, place the flap and using
the blunt stuffing tool apply pressure to permanently set the flap
into the channel.
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This procedure is repeated for the other
side.
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Again trim excess if is necessary.
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The key to a trouble free installation
at the front of the top is keeping in mind that the front bow and
listing stitch are your reference points when gluing the top to the
header bow.
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Apply contact cement to the header bow
and front of the top.
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When setting the front of the top to the
header bow begin by straddling the listing over the front bow and
make sure the corner is properly positioned.
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Work your way across the front, keeping
the stitch and bow alignment uniform while placing the top to the
header bow.
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Go to the opposite corner, and place the
remaining portion of the front to the header bow.
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Remember the stitch should be positioned
uniformly over the first bow.
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Continue to check and reposition as
necessary.
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Once you are satisfied with the front of
the top, install the cable screws in the header bow.
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Using an upholstery pin locate the exact
position in the top that will align the screw with the cable eyelet
and the hole in the header bow.
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Once this has been found, mark the spot
and with a punch make a small hole in the top.
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Pull the side cables thru the pockets
with the strings provided. If the strings have been removed, use a
wire pull to fish them thru.
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Put the chrome phillips screw through
the screw eyelet, through the top material the cable eyelet and into
the header bow. Apply contact cement to the underside of the header
bow, at the ends and along the front edge of the header and deck.
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Once the contact cement becomes tacky
use a blunt tool to set the front of the top to the underside of the
header bow.
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Apply contact cement to the underside of
the front side flaps and set into place.
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With the front corners now in place
apply contact cement to the outer side of the front side flaps and
to the horizontal door glass seal.
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Allow time for the glue to set up and
place the seal into position.
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When fitting the top under the header
bow the excess material is removed by making two relief cuts.
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The first cut is made along the deck
seam and should stop about 3/4 of an inch from the leading edge.
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The second relief cut will be near the
end of the header bow, work the excess material into a pleat.
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Make the second notch cut leaving about
5/16 inch of material from the apex of the cut to the edge of the
header bow, trim the reinforcement as well.
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Apply contact cement to the pull tab you
have just created and pulling it inward toward the center of the
header bow, cement the tab into place.
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Contact cement can now be applied and
the remaining front of the quarter glued into place.
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The front of the top is now ready for
final trim.
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Make sure enough material is left so
that unfinished edge of the top underlies the weather seal retainer
and not beyond.
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The retainer screws should fall about
3/16 to 1/4 of an inch inside the trimmed edge.
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Re-install the header bow weather seal
retainer.
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The weather seal is held into the
retainer by an interlocking lip.
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Using a blunt tool work the seal back
into the retainer.
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Apply adhesive to the end of the header
bow and the weather seal.
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Press the end of the seal into place.
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Install the horizontal door glass seal
retainer.
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The weather seal is interlocked in its
retainer with a blunt stuffing tool.
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Thread the side tension cable through
the hole at the top of the vertical frame member, route it around
the stud and bring it back through the lower hole.
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With the pliers, pull the cable taut and
tighten the cable stud nut.
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Cement the pull tab to the vertical
member by applying contact cement to both surfaces and pulling the
tab tight enough to properly position the binding to the edge of the
frame then set the tab.
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With the upper and lower side corners
set, apply contact cement to the vertical frame member and vertical
flap.
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The extra material has been left at the
bottom of the flap to bridge the gap between the bottom of the
vertical frame member and the body of the car.
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Glue and fold the material forming a
seal of sorts which lies on the body.
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Trim the excess material.
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Set the vertical flap into place on the
frame using a blunt stuffing tool to press it firmly into the corner
then trim the excess flap material.
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Use a pointed tool to find the hole in
the frame member for the flat head screw and eyelet.
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Make a hole for the screw, install the
screw and eyelet.
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Locate and make the necessary screws
holes for the retainer.
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Install the vertical door glass seal
retainer with the retainer screws.
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Now install the vertical door glass
seal, again interlocking the seal lip into place with a blunt
stuffing tool.
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When attaching the listings to the bows,
keep in mind that the unfinished portion of the listing is wrapped
around the bow first and the portion with the folded finished edge
is installed last to provide a nice finished look and avoiding
unsightly frayed edges.
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Protect the top from overspray and apply
contact cement to the bow and the unfinished listing edge.
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When the adhesive is tacky, wrap the
listing around the bow and smooth it out.
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Apply more adhesive to the covered bow
and finished edge.
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When adhesive is tacky wrap listing
around the bow in the opposite direction.
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Smooth out the listing and repeat the
procedure for the remaining bows.
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Remember the unfinished edge is wrapped
first followed by the folded edge.
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With everything else in order the rear
retainer can be raised to the vertical position for installation of
the rubber seal.
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Interlock the lip of the rubber seal
into the channel using a blunt stuffing tool and work the lip into
the channel.
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Start the installation from the center
and work toward the end.
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Latch the top into position.
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Use contact adhesive to glue the
horizontal side seals which have been provided in the space between
the door glass and the horizontal flap.
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Remove tools and protective coverings.
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Check for excess adhesive and clean off
with solvent.
Elapsed time approximately 4 hours.
